Tuesday, April 27, 2010

Off to Koshi

It is going to be veerryy interesting to see how we fare in the Terai, so close to the Maoist "indefinite" strike. But, nevertheless, NTGK, Bhushan Shilpakar and Prawin Adhikari are headed Biratnagar way, most likely to stay in Inaruwa/Itahari, sweltering in the sun, no doubt, and come back with at least 8/10 interviews for the Planet Nepal project...

Koshi Tappu, the river Koshi, the heat and glare... mosquitoes, waterborne diseases, riding motorbikes through the day... not really looking forward to any of it...

Back on Friday, except, unless, if, but, you know, who knows, after all, the indefinite strike, so, whatever...

Wednesday, April 21, 2010

Jivan Mrityu

DVDs of Jivan Mrityu are out. Subtitled in English.

Imja: A Photograph


Chhori and Dad.

Frozen blankness: Imja lake.

Mountain behind: Island Peak.

Photo by: NayanTara Gurung Kakshapati

Monday, April 19, 2010

Kathmandu

NT and Chhori are stuck in Lukla, but I am back in Kathmandu.

Day 1: KTM-Lukla-Monjo
Day 2: Monjo-Namche
Day 3: Namche-Thamo-Thame
Day 4: Thame
Day 5: Thame-Syangboche-Khumjung
Day 6: Khumjung-Tyangboche
Day 7: Tyangpoche-Pangboche
Day 8: Pangboche
Day 9: Pangboche-Shomare-Dingboche
Day 10: Dingboche-Chhukung
Day 11: Chhukung-Imja Tso-Dingboche-Pangboche
Day 12: Pangboche-Tyangboche-Namche
Day 13: Namche-Phakding
Day 14: Phakding-Lukla
Day 15: Lukla-Ktm

Highest point: Imja Tso, at 5,010 above sea level, which probably means we got to about 5,020 meters above sea level.

Lowest: Possibly Ghat or Phakding, at around 2,600 meters above sea level.

Number of showers taken: 2 [Day 6: Tyangboche, Rs 250 for an inadequate bucket of lukewarm water, Day 15: Phakding, long, rewarding hot shower costing no additional rupiyah]

Number of times the bowels were evacuated: 5: Monjo, Tyangboche, Pangboche, Pangboche, Phakding.

Most difficult climb: Up to Namche, since it was the second day of the trek. Climb up to Tyangboche wasn't as difficult as it was made out to be. Climb to Syangboche, after four hours of walking from Thame, in the high heat of noon, nearly martyred the party.

After crossing 4,500 meters, the air got perceptibly thinner. Breathing became difficult, but there were no other effects of altitude. Walking up to the lake was hard, but I knew it was going to be hard, what with lungs the pair like mine, so I sucked air with every step, and had fun.

The lake was frozen white. The glacier was almost a kilometer to the east. It snowed lightly on day 8, and fairly thickish on Day 9.

Almost thirty interviews--patience started to thin around the 12th interview. On day 11, NTGK and I were locked in a room by three angry community leaders. They asked me on whose authority I had come to do this "research." I leaned forward, said: "pheri bhannus ta?" My instantaneous rendition of "come again?"

Then I said--"Ma ta yeuta swatantra nagarik ko haisiyat ma, aafnai authority ma aayeko." I am here as a free citizen, on my own damned authority.

Most shattering words listened to, in Jagjit Singh's voice:

"Ghalib-e-khasta ke bagair kaun sa kaam band hai?
Roiye jaar-jaar kya, kijiye hai-hai kyun?"

Tastiest dal-bhat: at Thamo
Prettiest vale: just before reaching Thamo. Dyamn. Laligurans, danfe, little kids. Water-driven maney. Dyamn.
Yak steak: 1. Tough, Sinewy. Smelled of piss: hormones, age.
Momos eaten: 2 plates. Milinge and Lukla. Buffalos are slaughtered 2 days south of Lukla; men carry entire thighs, weighing up to 30 kilos each, on their shoulders, and take them north, sometimes all the way to EBC, taking three, four days to carry the load, in the noon sun. Surprisingly, the meat is better than you'd find in momos in Kathmandu. Go figure.

Bengalis with monkey-caps and raincoat to shield from the wind: perhaps half-dozen. Why?

Most pleasant walk: the road built by Pasang Sherpa, from Khumjung to Namche, the most beautiful and frightening ravines, valleys that plunge to the netherworlds, rise above misty ridges.

Age, as guessed by various people: 35, 45, possibly 50

Twice, people asked Saprina--AKA chhori--was my daughter. At Lukla, a lady asked if I was with Saprina [budha-budhi]. I pulled a solemn face and said: "No, she is my daughter [chhori]." The lady started to stammer and apologize. Sherpa people. They made me feel so much older.

more as I settle down.

Tuesday, April 13, 2010

Dingboche

Tonight at Dingboche, tomorrow hike to Imja, return to Chhukung. Day after at Tyengboche. Then to Namche. Then Lukla. Tomorrow the toughest walk, followed by the walk from Namche to Lukla, although most of it is downhill.

Altitude today: 4,400 meters from sea level. Mid day tomorrow: 5,010! Woo hoo! Apetite is strong, piss is regular, dreams are syrupy. Man is dandy.

Walking uphill reminds me that the landscape is slowly sculpting my body: my buttocks already feel more taut. Some will be happy to hear that, no doubt.

It snowed this morning! Hell yeah! Hope to have a snowed-out New Year.

Happy New Year to you all!

Friday, April 9, 2010

Khumjung

Maden--no photos, because I have no camera with me, and NTGK is taking all the pictures. But, once internet isn't as expensive, I'll post some pictures. There will be a set of before-after pictures, but my hope of losing weight now seems foolish. I have a grand appetite, and walk like a well-fed sloth, so I am afraid I might return with a bigger belly, not a smaller one.

After Namche, we walked to Thame--a very beautiful walk along Bhotekoshi, with a couple of valleys so achingly beautiful it makes you want to start potato farming and raising yaks. Laligurans is in full bloom here, entire trees--not shrubs as in the mid-hills, but large trees-are resplendent in pink and white. There is a small metal bridge over Bhotekoshi just before reaching Thame--the rocks are sculpted into graceful curves and crannies.

We stayed at Appa Sherpa's tea-house, met the man himself, interviewed him. At one point, he poured hot water into my water bottle. Yeah. That happened.

Went up to the monastery in Thame, where who should we end up talking to but Appa Sherpa's Thawa brother Nawang Rapta... the monastery is building a six-room hotel to supplement its meager income. NTGK took a portrait of Nawang Rapta under the skylights in the still-under-construction space, and it is my favorite so far.

From Thame we walked back towards Namche, climbed up to the ridiculously small village of Syangboche, stopped for a talk, three cups of tea and one and half rings of canned pineapple-in-syrup at Nepal's only Yak Breeding Center, which--hold your breath--some politician apparently wants to convert into a high-altitude golf course.

If anyone knows that politician, please punch him on the nose on my behalf. If you look at the complete picture, domestic Yak is poised to become an extinct species. Of course, there is no such thing as a wild species of Yak.

Today at Khumjung, a most picturesque village all of green roofs [except the monastery--which has red roofs and ancient pines guarding it], and where the famous Hillary School is located. Tomorrow to Tyangboche.

Here, internet is Rs 15/min.

Tuesday, April 6, 2010

Namche!

From Lukla, we walked to Monju, a pleasant walk along Dudhkoshi. This morning, started from Monjo around 8 AM, was in Namche at 11 AM. It was difficult for about an hour, but that was it. I looked at my feet, remembered that one foot usually goes ahead of the other, and repeated the process. At the hotel in Namche--Camp de Base--my face was streaked with white lines of dry salt and sweat. One spotty old banana was Rs 40, but never more welcome.

Internet is too expensive for me to be expansive :)

Friday, April 2, 2010


"Octavio Paz, the Nobel Prize-winning Mexican writer, begins his essay “Translation: Literature and Letters” with the sentence: “When we learn to speak, we are learning to translate.” He states that children translate the unknown into a language that slowly becomes familiar to them, and that all of us are continually engaged in the translation of thoughts into language. Then he develops an even more suggestive notion: no written or spoken text is “original” at all, since language, what ever else it may be, is a translation of the nonverbal world, and each linguistic sign and phrase translates another sign and phrase. And this means, in an absolutely utopian sense, that the most human of phenomena—the acquisition and use of language—is, according to Paz, actually an ongoing, endless process of translation; and by extension, the most creative use of language—that is, literature is also a process of translation: not the transmutation of the text into another language but the transformation and concretization of the content of the writer’s imagination into a literary artifact. As many observers, including John Felstiner and Yves Bonnefoy, have suggested, the translator who struggles to re-create a writer’s words in the words of a foreign language in fact continues the original struggle of the writer to transpose nonverbal realities into language. In short, as they move from the workings of the imagination to the written word, authors engage in a process that is parallel to what translators do as we move from one language to another."

Wonderful stuff.

All I have to say to this is: "Sure. But only if the original is worth its salt."

Thursday, April 1, 2010

How smart people kill time



Chau Dang likes to post links to this website, but I had never before bothered to follow the links and read the comic strips there. I did today, addicted, although I have much, much better stuff to do. I mean urgent work that can't wait.

Procrastination? I wouldn't call it that!

use commands like "prev" or "next" to navigate ... or go with "random" ... but make sure to hover your mouse pointer above the panels for the little extra bit of reward...

What I will be busy with next...

Planet Nepal

Tuesday, March 30, 2010

Friday, March 26, 2010

From you library, Maden?

This is the latest on the Kohi... Mero front: a poster! In 2010, Love will find you.

Yeah. That's exactly what is going to happen. But only if you buy tickets and watch it in the theaters. That will be the biggest reason why *I* will go to watch it, day after day. I will stand outside with over-sized glasses, pretending to hide from the masses, but not really, only casually mentioning to every pretty woman in the audience that I just might be the person with his name on the poster... Yup. That is the plan.

Utsav--I was in your institution's library, waiting for Vijay Khadgi. There was time to kill, so I thought checking my mail was a good idea. NTGK was frantically reworking the questions to ask the experts, and I had an assignment to finish, although I didn't quite know how to tackle it [a commercial website's front-page... I couldn't think of a way of finishing it]. So, I thought I'd post a cheeky little message to you. So I did, calling the blog post "Blogging from ICI***"

As a joke, I wrote: I am posting from ICI*** library's "research" computer stations, misusing the resources. It took people in your office less than five minutes to hunt me down with a print-out of the posting, green high-lights over the offensive words, phrases that made the institution look bad, I guess. It was scary--either they were monitoring all traffic from the library [I had been answering some rather personal emails], or they have some way of knowing whenever ICI*** gets mentioned on the web.

"I guess, as an institution you can't afford to have a sense of humor," I said to the person who'd accosted me with the printout. He was huffing in anger, as if the sky had come crashing down on his head. There was a long "hehehehehe" after the sentence that mentioned "misuse," but nobody was hehehe'ing with me, it seems.

So I had to deleted the post. I am surprised you got an alert about the post and the authorities didn't rain down upon you with all of their wrath.

It is a nice place, ICI***, but a tad too sensitive, it seems. Very helpful people, of course. But, surely, they aren't infallible in what they do. I wonder how well they take criticism of the scholarship they produce, if they can't let a chappal-padkaoing freelance writer hehehehe from their library computers.

So you be careful, too, Maden! You are deep in the draconian lair!

hehehehehe...

Tuesday, March 23, 2010

Photos by Deepak Shah



Kalakar took these pictures in Bandipur... Prasanna and I had been imbibing, and it wasn't easy following Deepak over all those rocks, scrambling through scratchy brambles, walking with a sweaty pair of feet in thin chappals, but the reward was fitting: rocks shaped by sun and wind and rain, two valleys sweeping to giant, distant ranges, nothing but the breeze to listen to, a hawk so meditative and playful that it reduced the entire text of Johnathan Livingstone Seagull to a punctuation mark.

I must have sucked my stomach in for the photos.

Friday, March 19, 2010

Kohi ... Mero

www.kohimero.com

Expect a music release party soon, which is to say, a party for me, and for you, the music to be available in the market... there are a few very melodious songs in the movie. I near frightened Moitra yesterday, trying to sing a song from the movie, my ineptitude compounded by the fact that I had forgotten both the words and the tune...

It is possible I will get to see the final edit of the movie soon [before the background score is put in, and before the final, final version is prepared], because it might be able to use a few more lines of writing, and I still have to do the English subtitles, anyway. That is going to be a weird ride: translating into English the dialogues I originally wrote in Nepali [which the actors improved, no doubt]. It will become painfully apparent to me how terribly or how well I write dialogue.

When work is play

That false adage about finding something you love to do so it never feels like work...

No matter how much I love what I do, there are days when it does feel like work, especially when the bitch [that is, my professed art and craft and cloak of self-definition] don't give me no lovin' right back. These have been just such days.


In case you are in Kathmandu on the 21st, come to QC in Jawlakhel for the Tavern Tales... or, it might be at the Indian Embassy Library, at Sundhara. Best thing to do while there--wander out and keep a sharp eye out for second-hand fiction books...

I picked up The Friendly Brook and Other Stories by R. Kipling from there for Rs 60. By far the most rewarding collection of short fiction I have read in years. He proves to me the utility behind the longevity of a writer's career, the importance of speech and sound in enfolding a multitude of ideas into one expression, and the need for a mind that is expansive but acute, as a preparation for a career writing fiction.

Maia R. Lee is an painter/poet preparing for a solo exhibition in about two months. She gave me A Clockwork Orange to read. I had always only browsed through the book, reading no more than a few pages at a time, loving instead the Kubrick movie, never feeling anything on the page really tug at the mind. I have to say the most interesting bit about this edition of the novel was not the novel itself, but the introduction by Anthony Burgess where he details his choices. Sometimes--with Kipling, for instance--the work is much larger than the writer, the mind is the basis and not the flourish. Other times, the mind is the flourish and the work is subservient to it. That is what it felt like, reading the novel. A very good read, no doubt, but nothing like reading Kipling.

Many readers of the book seem to think that Burgess achieves something quite grand by the way of a linguistic experiment in the book. I would invite these readers to search the stories by Kipling for real writerly work done with language--the living, actual, spoken language, what we call dialects, and see how much more can be achieved with a just pair of ears and some affection for the vessel and table called language.



Wednesday, March 17, 2010

Khadgadevi's Temple

Deepak took this photo in Bandipur.

We'd just spent the afternoon scrambling over rain-sculpted, razor-sharp rocks, following goat-trails over a ridge, admiring Prasanna's sunglasses.

Back!

I am back!

I plan on not telling anyone about the renaissance of my poor blog. Mostly because there is not much to write about these days--I have tired of writing about Kathmandu, or my work [and lack thereof]; and I am working towards yet another movie script that can't be discussed. A man who sits at his desk all day and has nothing new to say--not very exciting read, is it?

But,

I can talk about Dalan, the tele-serial by Nabin Subba and Aahuti and Jagaran Media, for which I am engaged in writing English subtitles. The work is in turns tedious and heart-rending. I haven't finished much of it, and I can't post clips from Dalan here, but the more I think of the work, the more I have been consumed by the notion that a novelization would be a great idea. It could go episodically, perhaps start as short stories by a handful of writers who take an an episode and make it into a short story.

I doubt if you, who've come to this blog, have seen Dalan. However, there are over 400 "Dalan Film Clubs" around the world now. Once the tele-serial gets translated, it should reach more people. But, a chapter-by-chapter novelization would reach even more people, I think, from it being available as text.

In any case, here I am now.

Saturday, September 12, 2009

Million Dollar Babu

I have been told that this a somewhat crappy essay, and I agree. I tried writing it after a sleepless night, and a storm in the head. I am beginning to feel guilty that I am not writing as well as I ought to be writing--or even as well as I am capable of writing.

In other news: Detective Jagat Kunwar is returning to Kathmandu. I look forward to seeing him.

----

Chakraborti? That is possible, it sounds just about right, a Babu with a service in the Railway, Chakraborty sounds right, but it could easily have been a Banerji or Chatterji. A solid Bengali name, not Muslim or Bihari. Nadim Bhai is not sure. But the story is hilarious, so he has to giggle, and that makes it harder for him to remember the name of the Million Dollar Babu. What is a story that doesn't name the emperor who parades naked through the markets of Barra Bazaar?

Chakraborti Babu arrives at Topsia in a car with tinted windows, sends the driver to look for Nadim. The world-weary driver adds another layer of security: instead of approaching Nadim, he catches Nadim's childhood friend, another man named Nadim By the time Nadim and Nadim are in the presence of Chakraborty Babu, it feels like a bad gangster movie. Chakraborty Babu is big in the spongy rosogulla way, not at all imposing, breathing a little hard, constantly wiping his forehead.

“You know foreigners, Nadim Bhai,” says Chakraborty in Bangla. “I have a job for you that nobody else can do. If you do it well, twenty percent is yours. Think, Nadim Bhai. You will make twp lakhs minimum. And if you do this job well, there'll be more.”

Nadim knows foreigners because he is associated with a small NGO that runs a clinic from a one-room Youth Club in his neighborhood. A teashop around the corner loans them tables, or loans their plastic chairs—in any case, every time the clinic opens, foreigners grin and nod at the teashop and point at the chairs and tables on which rickshaw pullers and other teashop-wallahs sit for chit-chat and gup-shup. These foreigners also go to Nadim's home, sit in his kitchen and talk to his mother, his sister. Elena used to spend every day with him, running after Zeenat Aman, taking Baby Amrin to the hospital for surgery. People of Topsia are used to seeing her step lightly through the laughter and mud and despair of their neighborhood, with Nadim following shortly behind, his short, limber gait full of understated swagger.

Nadim doesn't know what to make of the opportunity: a few hours' work and two lakhs on the table! He consults Elena. I can't keep myself out of it. “What do you think, Parawin Bhai?” asks Nadim. “Money is money,” I say. “But, what is the catch?”

“No catch,” Nadim says. “The Bengali Babu has wads of money, a lot of money in American dollars, and he wants me to get it converted through my foreigner friends.” What foreigner friends? Backpacker volunteers who want to spend two weeks washing wounds and irrigating ears of children from a Muslim slum in Kolkata? Why isn't the Bengali Babu going to a bank? “Arre, yaar! It must be haraam money! He is scared. Every time I meet him, he drives me out to Tangra and takes me to eat Chinese. What do you want to eat? This, this, that? Eat more! You want whiskey? I have to say—Ramjan is going on. I don't take during Ramjan. Yesterday, for me and Nadim, seven hundred rupees at the Chinese restaurant. But he doesn't eat anything. Not even a Sprite.”

Nadim arrives three days later with two sheets of photocopy: one is a certificate of “authenticity.” The fine print is garbled, but the word “authenticity” is legible. The other is a photocopy of a million dollar bill. “You should have seen him. He was so scared. Every time someone came into the restaurant, he would snatch this up and put his fist under the table. I said—show me the original. What if you don't have an original?”

A million dollar bill? In Kolkata, with a Babu in the Railways? I search for denominations of US currency in wikipedia: of course, the million dollar bill exists. Rarer are the ten-thousand dollar bills, commemorative, by now illegal tender. Almost as infrequent as the two-dollar bill, a genuine legal tender that is just so quirky. Hank Williams sang about it: “I got a hot-rod Ford han a two-dollar bill, I know a shpot right over der hill, der's soda pop han dancin's free...” I show Elena the wikipedia entry on the million dollar bill and she falls off the chair laughing and between breathless bouts of laughter explains everything to Nadim.

The next day I fry mushrooms with soaked rice, then throw in the daal from the previous night, which was too salty to eat. The rice soaks up the salt, now there is khichadi for dinner. “There!” I say to myself. But Elena doesn't come home on time. She can get easily distracted by new curtains, or even mops and scrubs, at this point in her life. I sit glumly and type, slowly seething in anger. When she comes, she has a helmet on her head, and Nadim right behind, jumping two, three steps at a time. They can't wait to start giggling.

“I wish you were there! We went to a six, seven story tall building, through these alleys... oh those alleys! You should have seen them!” Nadim takes over the narrative: “We had to pass through seven, eight doors. Big men just standing there, like guards. And hair everywhere!”

“Big piles of hair, all over the floor, all along the walls, right up to the ceiling. They deal in hair. It was weird. There wasn't any hair only in the stairwell, but there were men standing in the stairwell, all silently peeing on the wall.”

“We reached him. He sent everybody away and then took out this small plastic pouch from his vest. Inside, he had the million dollar bill.” Chakraborty Babu's body guards positioned themselves at the entrance, behind ceiling-high pile of human hair, where all barbers of Kolkata must send their cargo. Elena took the note and slowly read out the text printed where the legal tender is normally shown. “This bill has been printed to increase your FUN! To be used exclusively at fairs and parties!” And more such drivel, all disguised by genuine typography and serious artwork to make it look and feel real.

Chakraborty Babu doesn't quite understand at first, and Elena can't understand how, in Kolkata, a city where even the Muslim women from the slums sometimes get a Masters in Sociology before becoming a gate for reproduction, reduced to veil and vulva, a Babu who lords over all the hair of Kolkata and has a job in the Railways could be fooled by so many into thinking that he was a Million Dollar Babu.

“It is a fake, made for children,” she explains. For birthday parties and fairs. And now Nadim and Elena laugh, waiting for me to join in.

I don't think that is funny at all, I say. I think it is sad, incredibly sad. He thought it was real for so long, it must have become a part of his dreams. He must have dreamed of a lot of things that would come out of that tender and give him happiness. It must have become the font of his hopes for a future filled with happiness, and you, with one careless gesture, showed him the truth about him: he is but a fool, hoodwinked by god knows how many who played along in the charade. It is cruel to do that to a person, I say. But, all said and done, who wouldn't laugh at the Million Dollar Babu?

Wednesday, September 9, 2009

Last day in Kolkata



Nobody ever around to take my pictures. So I take my own.

rain


:-(